Vegas Virgin Trip

Posted on April 23, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

(TBT – This post is a reprint of a journal intro that I wrote (published Feb. 7, 2007) for the now defunct travel web site IGOUGO.com)

For several years, I listened to my Las Vegas-loving in-laws go on and on about how great it was.   Their 50th wedding anniversary was the strong incentive to get me to make my “virgin” trip there. I went with a lot of reservations (and not just the hotel or restaurant kind).

My first impressions – flashy, trashy and smoke filled. Yuck! Could I get a breath of fresh air, please! Just a short wait to check in at Bally’s had the clothes I was wearing requiring a good cleaning.

It boggled my mind, the vast numbers of people at the slot machines and gaming tables, who sat mindlessly hour after hour throwing their money away. Surely this has to be one of the biggest legal scams in America.

I did try and actually found some things to like about Las Vegas. The themed hotels were interesting to explore. A number of big name chefs have opened restaurants there, so the food is surprisingly good.  By far, my favorite thing is the presence of several Cirque du Soleil shows which are amazing to watch.

Would I go back? Yes, I’ve actually gone back twice – once for a girls’ weekend to celebrate my mother-in-law’s 77th birthday and a second time to celebrate our 15th wedding anniversary.

Here are some tips to help make your stay easier and more enjoyable:

1. Take advantage of free stuff and discounts. Sign up for the rewards program at your hotel. Even though I didn’t gamble much, I got a great book of coupons for discounts on the hotel shops and other activities. Some reward plans give your credit and allow discounts at all their sister properties (ex: all Harrah’s properties).

2. Free Transportation – Harrah’s runs a free shuttle from Paris Las Vegas over to the Rio and there is a free cable tram that stops at Excalibur, Luxor and Mandalay Bay.

3. If there is an activity you really want to do or a restaurant you are dying to dine at, make reservations as much as 3 to 4 months in advance to avoid disappointment.

4. If a restaurant requests confirmation 24 hours in advance, do so both as a courtesy and to verify your reservation hasn’t been lost. If you can’t keep your reservation, call and cancel. The restaurants get a lot of no-shows, so cancelling frees up space for someone else to enjoy a meal there.

5. Dress comfortably, especially shoes if you intend on doing a lot of walking.

6, Dress up for dinner, but save the trashy outfit for the late night clubs. I found Vegas a fun place to play a game of “What NOT to Wear”. It’s amazing what people think is acceptable to wear here on vacation and makes for some really interesting people watching.

7. Get outside once in a while. It’s one of the few places one can get away from all the cigarette smoke. The other smoke-free zones I found were the area of designer shops in the Bellagio and the Fashion Mall.

8. Consider the weather. Summers are hot. September and November have sunny days and cool nights. February is cold and windy. Also, some hotel pools close for the season (October/November) due to lighter weekday guest counts and cooler weather.

9. The Las Vegas monorail system is the best mode of transportation. It will save a lot of time and your feet, especially if you are wearing heels. Buy a pass that fits your stay for unlimited rides over several days to save money.

10. Guard your money and other valuables. Always be aware of your surroundings, including people who seem to be getting too close to you. With the amount of money flowing in this town, it’s just too tempting for crooks. They are prepared and glad to relieve some air-headed distracted tourist of their money or other valuables. Watch how much alcohol you drink for the same reason.

10. Beware of scams! Too many visitors are looking for the quick big payoff. If it seems too good to be true….you know the rest.

12. Don’t limit yourself to eating at cheap all-you-can-eat buffets. That’s what the casinos want your to do so you can spend your money gambling. If you can afford it, enjoy at least meal at one of the many great restaurants Vegas has to offer. You’ll be pleasantly surprised at the quality of the food.

13. If you’re not a fan of crowds, plan your trip for weekdays, departing by Friday afternoon. The weekends are dreadfully crowded, especially with loud obnoxious college kids who have driven in to party all weekend, sleeping several to a room and taking up all the space at the pool. You’ll also find hotel rates a bit cheaper on weeknights.

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Right Place, Right Time Photo Ops

Posted on April 19, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

First in a series of occasional posts on photography.

There is always something special about capturing once-in-a-lifetime photographs; what I like to call “Right Time, Right Place Photos”. This holds especially true when you are traveling as you may never return to the place and it is almost certain that the moment the photo captures will never happen again, at least not in the same way.

I used to live in Maine when I was a girl. At the time, I did not own a camera, nor had the passion I have now for photography. My memories were of my Mom’s Kodak Brownie that captured all of our most often stiffly posed childhood memories. Some of those memories included several trips to Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island. As a child, I could not appreciate the incredible natural beauty of this place. Only as an adult, did I learn what it is that my parents in taking me there were trying to teach me – a deep appreciation for nature. Two of the things that my mother taught me still stay with me today. One is bird watching and the other is listening to nature. Both have given me the skill to be ready to capture that special photograph whenever I go hiking in the woods.

Woodpecker on birch tree

Woodpecker on birch tree

This photo was taken at Schooner Head. It was during the government shutdown in October 2013, so access to the park was limited. We were on a path just below the overlook. I suddenly heard pecking and told my husband to stand still and not speak. My ears led me to the source of the sound – a woodpecker on a birch tree. At the time, all I had was a Lumix DMC-FZ28 superzoom digital camera. Bigger than a point and shoot but nothing fancy, that day it was enough. At first I could not see the woodpecker, only hear the rapid fire ‘tap, tap, tap’. I figured out which tree it was on and set my focus, then waited as the bird worked its way around the tree. When the moment felt right, I pressed the shutter button.

Let me know what you think.

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A Case of Mistaken Identity

Posted on April 15, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

“Never judge a book by its cover” is good advice we all should take. It’s no fun being misjudged as something that you are not or not credited for being something you are.

Such was the case when I was staying at Gleneagles in Scotland with my husband and in-laws as part of a golf trip that included visits to several golf resorts (St. Andrews, Turnbury, etc) as well as time in London. It was my first trip to Scotland, a country I had always aspired to visit.

Traveling with my in-laws was always a treat. They liked luxury and had the financial means to obtain it. The Gleneagles Hotel is a luxury hotel, somewhat like the great English houses seen on a British PBS special. The hotel’s web site describes it as a magnificent “French chateau”, but it is more like a baronial country estate. Opened in 1924, it is the best blend of historic architecture coupled with modern convenience and top-notch service.

On one morning of our stay there was a show jumping competition being held. I love horses. My husband and I went down to the breakfast room to enjoy the sumptuous buffet. I was dressed more for riding with form-fitting stir-up jeans and an oversized sweater, but no riding boots. I wasn’t sloppy, just dressed for the activity and the slightly chilly Scottish weather. I am average looking and don’t give off the air that I might have a somewhat privileged life.

I ordered a Viennese coffee and proceeded to tell my husband how excited I was to attend this competition which was a qualifier for a final competition on the European continent later that summer. Some of the best riders and horses from all over Great Britain were there. My misfortune was being overheard by a dining room supervisor, who assumed I was not a guest of the hotel and came over and roundly chastised me saying the buffet was for “Guests only.” He was so rude, that I was dumbfounded. I can’t remember if either one of us managed to mumble that we were indeed guests.

Later that day while returning to our room, I was relating what had happened in the breakfast room to another person in our party, saying that the staff member said I didn’t look like I belonged there. I heard a female voice behind me say “You look like you belong here to me.” We turned to find a woman who turned out to be one of the assistant managers of the hotel. She asked for a full accounting of what took place that morning. She promised the matter would be taken care of and apologized for it happening. Now that’s what I call customer service.

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The Holy Donut, Portland, Maine

Posted on March 17, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

Americans have a love affair with donuts. Me, not so much. They would have to be exceptionally delicious or unique for me to eat one.  A case in point would be The Holy Donut in Portland. Numerous rave reviews and this warning on their web site  ” Each location closes upon selling out” created the needed urgency and desire to check them out.

What makes their donuts so unique that once a man offered $100 for two? It should be no surprise that they are made with riced Maine potatoes. Duh! Owner Leigh Kellis, worked out the recipe after some trial and error and says the potatoes make the donuts extra moist. Other ingredients are top notch – local dairy, unbleached flour, the highest quality dark cocoa powder and 60% dark chocolate chips. What’s not in them is just as important – No fake sweeteners, high fructose corn syrups or hydrogenated oils. No fake flavorings or color in the glazes either. Donuts are fried in  100% canola oil. In addition to the moistness, the real attraction is the unusual flavors – dark chocolate sea salt, maple, mojito and even bacon cheddar.

I stopped in at the 194 Park Avenue location as the downtown location on Exchange was still 2 weeks away from opening. I drove right past the plain white shop the first time. Surprisingly mid-morning on a Saturday, there was no long line of customers (as there often can be) snaking out the door that would have clued me in as to where it was.

There seemed to be an abundant selection and supply of donuts that morning. It being October I was hoping for pumpkin (one of my favorites) but that flavor was not baked that day. I settled for an apple cider donut. That was probably my first mistake. Thinking back, I should have gone for their top seller of chocolate sea salt since I am a sea salt fanatic and chocolate is one of my favorites things to eat.

My second mistake was eating breakfast earlier and not allowing enough time to pass to do a true tasting. My first bite impression was “Bleck!” The texture was weird and somewhat gummy. It was as if the donut was not fully cooked, but it was based on looking at the interior texture. It did not taste prominently of apple cider or cinnamon. The taste was almost indiscernible.

The Holy Donut also offers gluten free Maine potato donuts in cinnamon sugared, dark chocolate sea salt and glazed (flavor rotates daily). I would definitely try those as I am trying to cut back on gluten. Their web site says they also offer a gluten-free plain or chocolate with the option of vanilla or mocha glaze in their donut cakes (think a pyramid of donuts). Vegan donuts are also available.

While my first visit a disappointment, but I will gladly give The Holy Donut another try the next time I am in Portland. I will go on an empty stomach with an open mind and select flavors I know I will love.

Web Site: http://www.theholydonut.com/

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Duckfat – World’s Most Awesome Fries!

Posted on March 10, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

3rd in a series of dining reviews in conjunction with Maine Restaurant Week March 1 – 14.

If you only have time to eat at one restaurant in Portland, Maine, let this be the one. Neither the decor or food is fancy, but the food is so good, it doesn’t need to be. This place is so insanely popular that there is almost always a wait to get in. Why? The absolutely World’s awesome Belgian Fries are served here – Maine potatoes cooked in duck fat. They don’t take reservations, but trust me on this – the wait is worth it!

Located at 43 Middle Street in a mostly residential neighborhood, parking is difficult to find. Be resourceful in selecting parking, as there is a 2-hour limit that is strictly enforced. Due to the wait and leisurely time we took enjoying our food, I moved my car twice to avoid a ticket.

We went on a Saturday afternoon in October shortly before noon. A 20 minute wait was only 10 to 15 minutes. Whiled away the time in interesting conversation with a couple who were also from out-of-town. The fun things you learn that you have in common with your fellow travelers when you open up and talk to strangers or eavesdrop on a cool bearded server’s conversation (that he moved to Maine to be near a gal he had fallen in love with while hiking the AP. Ahhhhh!)

Enjoying the food at Duckfat

Enjoying the food at Duckfat

Lucky us! We were seated on stools in view of the kitchen and got to watch the fries being cooked up Belgian style – fried twice in duck fat. This might sound unhealthy, but research has shown that duck fat is one of the more healthy fats to use for frying. This gives the fries an extra crispness outside and melt in your mouth soft texture on the inside. The fries are tossed in a seasoning salt, then served in a wire cone lined with paper. Order a large, especially if there are two of you. You won’t regret it. There are eight sauces, all made fresh daily, to choose from. The garlic mayo is a perfect complement.

Also try the Poutine. If you’re Canadian or have ever tried this treat of fries smothered in delicious duck gravy and cheese curds, you know what I’m talking about.

Duckfat serves more than fries. Choices include paninis, homemade soups, salads and charcuterie. Check the chalkboard for daily specials. Most ingredients are locally sourced from some of Maine’s best farms and vendors, so everything is super fresh.

Due to taste testing another eatery in the morning, I wasn’t real hungry, so I ordered a very good grilled cheese. My husband had the Overnight Local Duck Confit panini. One bite and I was wishing I had gotten it too. It was a great mix of flavors – tender duck, pickled Maine apples, herb mayo and local greens on bread from a local bakery.

Drinks include craft sodas and milkshakes, all made in-house, plus a killer selection of Maine beers, wine, iced tea and coffee. I had the Sea Salt Caramel milkshake, which was creamy but not overly sweet or heavy.

BTW, Duckfat strives to be a green business. Used duck fat is picked up by Maine Standard Biofuels.

So leave any preconceived notions about fried potatoes at the door and enjoy this wonderful restaurant. The great food will have you returning to eat here any time you’re in Portland. You can always walk off the calories exploring the Old Port.

Hours: 11am – 9pm Sunday – Thursday and 11am – 10pm Friday – Saturday.

Web site: http://duckfat.com/

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Street & Co.

Posted on March 9, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

Second in a series of dining reviews in conjunction with Maine Restaurant Week running from March 1 – 14.

In planning my first trip to Portland, Maine, this restaurant came up on my radar. From reviews on various web sites, it seemed worthy of a visit. Reservations are pretty much a requirement, especially on weekends and tourist season.

Located in the Old Port on Wharf Street sandwiched between Commercial and Fore Streets, it’s not easy to find it you don’t know the area and it’s dark. After a few wrong turns and asking directions, we found it tucked on a cobblestone alley

Street & Co

Street & Co

The Old Port is an area of historic 19th century buildings.  This was once a bustling waterfront with fishermen bringing in the day’s catch, as well as merchants handling goods to be used all over New England. What were once warehouses and fishmongers have found new life as trendy shops, restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Upper floors house pricey remodeled condos and apartments, some retaining old architecture details. If you want character, this area has it by the boatload.

The interior is old-fashioned and cozy – original brick walls and wood beams. Even though we had a reservation, we were directed to the bar area to wait. The bar area has a few mismatched chairs and an old sofa for seating as well as a few stools at the bar.

Because this is a retro-fitted 19th century building, seating in the dining areas is cramped. We were seated at a tiny copper topped table next to a service table with my face inches from a dusty and dirty back of a coffee/tea machine. Yuck!  I could see steam coming from the machine when in use and I was overly warm and had visions of being scalded by hot water if a hose should come loose. Not the kind of dining experience most of us want.

Bread and butter was brought in a wire basket and noted the basket was caked in bread crumbs and flour – crud from countless loaves served during the evening. More yuck! Highly recommend for sanitary reasons that them to either wash the baskets between uses or use a cloth or paper liner. The bread was crusty outside and soft inside, but not warm, which to me usually means not fresh. Turns out the bread is baked at Standard Baking Company, one of its sister properties.

Fortunately, the variety of fish and seafood does not disappoint. There is a nice selection of wines – I select a Prosecco to go with seafood, while my hubby orders a Chardonnay from Burgundy. His appetizer was grilled sardine and for the main course whole grilled Branzino, (celeb chef Mario Batalis’ favorite) with small roasted potatoes, which he loved. Being a small appetite person, I ordered one of their interesting and always changing “based on available ingredients” salads and an appetizer portion of mussels. I had planned to order the scallops in Pernod sauce, one of their best known dishes, but since I don’t like the licorice taste of anise, I passed this time.

The best part of the meal was dessert – Panne Cotta with blackberry sauce (one of my personal favorites). Creamy and delicious to the very last bite. Depending on what fruit is seasonally available, the Panne Cotta can come with currant or blueberry sauce. All sauces have a good amount of whole berries in them.

Don’t miss the open kitchen. That’s where the show is. Take a few minutes to watch the cooking staff deftly pan sautéing, dodging leaping flames from the burners, pulling roasting skillets from ovens. It is a performance to watch as various dishes are prepared. These cooks are what make this restaurant truly a great place to dine.

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The Best Lobster Roll in Maine

Posted on March 4, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

In conjunction with Maine Restaurant Week running from March 1 – 14,  posts during the next few days will feature Maine restaurants I have had the pleasure of dining at. Maine dining is more than just seafood. Find out what this great state has to offer.

When visiting Maine, one has to eat lobster. (unless you are allergic to seafood.) Having lived in Maine, I know that nothing is sweeter or better than Maine lobster. With that thought in mind, plan a visit to Wiscasset, which bills itself as the prettiest village in Maine. Located on the Sheepscot River on Route 1, it is filled with antique shops. You’ll know you’re there when the traffic slows way down, partly due to the low speed limit and during the summer, due to the crowds.

Reds Eats - Wiscassett2The #1 reason to come to Wiscasset is Red’s Eats. I discovered it when planning a fall trip to Maine in 2013. Voted the #1 Lobster Roll in Maine (and possibly anywhere), Red’s draws devotees (including celebrities) from all over the country and has been featured on numerous food shows. With a following like that, how could I not pass up a chance to try it for myself.

Opened by Allen “Red” Gagnon, first in Boothbay in 1938, then moved to its present location in 1954, it is now owned and run by his daughters.

One of his quotes posted at the lobster shack summons up what keeps people coming back: “You can feed anyone once. Feed them twice and you’re something right!!”

The little shack with a red and white striped awning sits on the left corner of Water Street and Route 1 right before going over the bridge. No matter what time of year it is, you’ll see the line around Red’s that wraps around the corner and at times reaches almost to the bridge.

Two-hour parking is strictly enforced in Wiscasset. Avoid the urge to park on Route 1 and seek parking down side streets or the marina parking lot. The area is heavily residential, so be respectful not to park in someone’s driveway or on vacant lots. Red’s has no restrooms. Public restrooms are located at the marina a short walk along Water Street on the river.

Be forewarned, this place is crazy popular. The October day we ate there, we waited 1 hour 15 minutes to get to the window to place our order. But it was oh so worth it. Tip: If you’re with a group, have one person hold your place in line while the others use the time to go look in the shops.

Reds-Lobster-Rolls_redux50Almost every restaurant in Maine serves some version of a lobster roll. The meat is already removed from the shell and nestled in a bun, so what more could you ask for. What makes this place so special? It’s the sweet succulent lobster meat! I ran into Mrs. Gagnon once and she told me all her sons are lobstermen. They must have secret places to set their traps to get this amazing lobster. And they don’t scrimp. There is a whole lobster in each roll. The roll is soft and super fresh. My research has found they now offer a gluten free roll as well.

Most people are familiar with the typical lobster roll that is blended with just a touch of mayo. You can get it with a side of mayo, but I learned that locals prefer to eat their lobster roll with drawn butter.  Luscious decadent pure Heaven!  It’s almost impossible to pick up the whole roll. Take individual pieces of lobster and dunk in the drawn better so you don’t miss a bite.

 Luscious decadent pure Heaven! You can get it either way at Red’s. It’s almost impossible to pick up the whole roll. Take individual pieces of lobster to dunk in the drawn better so you don’t miss a bite.

Take your tray around back to the wood deck that overlooks the river, relax and enjoy the views and your food.

Lobster rolls are market price, which translates as “not cheap”. This is a treat well worth the price. We noted a group of enterprising college students who split a couple of lobster rolls, an order of onion rings and a piece of blueberry cake to keep costs down and still enjoy a taste of the awesome food.

Red’s has about 100 menu items to savor –  fried clams, crab rolls, fish, and the non-seafood eater specialty hot dogs, burgers and chicken. Sides include crispy golden fries, sweet potato fries and fat onion rings. If you still have room for dessert, try the homemade blueberry cake, a whoopie pie or ice cream. To see a large part of the menu, take a look at their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=10152513116173088&id=175139778087

Red’s Eats is open seasonally from April to the Sunday before Columbus Day (October).

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Joel Robuchon, MGM Grand Las Vegas – A Memorable Feast

Posted on February 23, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

If you are looking for one of the most luxurious, elegant, and romantic splurges with exquisite gourmet food, Joel Robuchon at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas is it. This restaurant has well-earned top dining ratings – Michelin’s Three Star, Forbes Five-Star, AAA Five Diamond, and Wine Spectator’s Grand Award. Don’t be a tourist; dress up for this one! And save up your pennies (lots of them). Cheap eats it’s not, but to dine here is memorable and well worth it.

jrobuchon_mansion_interiorThe experience starts as you enter the intimate Art Deco dining area with a sumptuous decor of black, shades of purple and lavender, beige with gold trim. Plants growing in rows of planter boxes that go up to the ceiling cover one wall.

Fine dining doesn’t begin to describe this restaurant. Joel Robuchon, a renown French chef and restaurateur for most of his life, has several restaurants located around the world. He joins other top chefs who have opened restaurants in Las Vegas changing the Vegas dining scene from the old idea of cheap buffets to elevate the city as a gourmet dining destination.

Diners select from creative and sophisticated French tasting menus – a Prix Fixe of 7 courses and a 17 course MENU DEGUSTATION. (Several Prix Fixe menus of different sizes are now offered for more flexibility). Each course is a crafting of original combinations of ingredients and flavors, a unique blend of tastes and textures. Menu choices change with the seasons and what is freshly available that day.

The first course is served as soon as you are seated – the day we dined it was La Pomme – apple gelee, yuzu granite and chutney set on glass plates. One of the cleverest Amuse-bouche I’ve ever seen, it becomes an enchanting showpiece when the server pours water under the plates, enveloping the dish in a wispy fog thanks to dried ice under the plate.

A bread cart is wheeled over with no less than ten choices. There is no diet or no restraint on carbs here. One of the three selections I made was a cheese brioche studded with crispy cheese, soft and light.

Selected wine was a half bottle of 2000 St. Emilion Cos de Menuts, which paired well with the food.

Courses were as follows:
2nd – La Tomato – A salad of Japanese Tomato, olive oil & basil tapenade & tomato gelee topped with mozzarella cheese.
3rd – La Chataigne – Light cream of chestnuts on top of celeriac custard. I usually don’t like chestnuts, but this was delicious!
Fish course – La Bar – Pan-fried sea bass from Brittany with five spices served with a grape sauce and tiny Champagne grapes, a sweet complement to the sea bass. Tender and delicious!
Entree – L’Angeau – A petite roasted lamb chop on top of wheat semolina (couscous) with Mediterranean flavors. Lamb stock was used in the couscous for great flavor!
Dessert – La Mandarine – Mandarine perfumed with Ceylan Orange Pekoe tea, caramelized yogurt ice cream. Proves you don’t need to have a big gooey dessert to get all the pleasure of sweets. Again, Mandarin oranges are not a favorite of mine, but paired with the flavor of orange pekoe tea and the caramelized yogurt ice cream, I liked it.

Lest you think dinner is over when coffee is served, you get a divine surprise – a large cart is wheeled over containing seductive sweets – house made candies – truffles, caramels, nougats, chocolate of every kind, even lollipops. The ‘kid in the candy store’ look on my face must have frightened the man at the next table as the server said to him: “Don’t worry, sir. There will be plenty left for you.” The dark chocolate covered ginger is properly savored by holding in the mouth so the chocolate melts and allows for deeply inhaling the crystallized ginger center. Chocolate nirvana! Another great choice is a chocolate with a creamy chocolate mousse center.

Diners get a copy of the menu tied with a purple ribbon and a giant brioche (which makes a great breakfast) as a memento of your fabulous meal.

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St. Andrews Sightseeing – Part 2 – Local Flavor

Posted on February 18, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

Aside from visiting tourist attractions and historical sites, the real flavor of a city or town can be learned and enjoyed by visiting places the locals do. Explore the town by walking not just on the major streets, but on side streets and look down alleys as well.

Because it was September, we observed the ritual of students and parents unloading their luggage prior to the start of the new year at St. Andrews University.  It is a joy to look at all the quaint old stone houses oozing Scottish charm. If you pay attention, you’ll see a slice of Scottish daily life such as spotting a wee Westie dozing in a sunny window or the lady of the house seeing a table for tea.

We looked at house for sale postings in the window of a local real estate office, curious to learn what one would cost and dream of owning a charming cottage in the Scottish countryside.

We patronized several local shops (I highly recommend doing this for unusual finds and even better prices!):

  • An Ironmonger – Ironmongers are interesting in the variety of goods they carry, beyond hardware and garden supplies. What drew me in were a colorful shelf full of Brown Betty teapots, which are actually cheaper to purchase here than at a souvenir shop.
  • A gift shop where I purchased a pack of Christmas cards with Westies on them, that benefited a charity that helps dogs
  • A pet supply to look for the perfect plaid dog collar and leash or dog coat.
  • Thrift Stores – They had super clean clothing in like new condition and great prices. I saw cashmere and lambswool sweaters in excellent condition at a fraction of retail or tourist shop prices. My great find was a beautiful hand-knit cream-colored wool Fisherman’s sweater at a bargain price.
  • Book Stores – You never know what treasure you might find. We dropped in at Quarto, an antiquarian book shop (now sadly closed) that carried rare and 1st edition books, including a 1st edition copy of Winnie the Pooh.
  • Antique Stores, especially the ones featuring golf items. Not cheap, but the perfect place to find a unique gift for the golfer on your list who has everything. A genuine 1840 featherie golf ball for £7000, anyone?!

We did visit some shops aimed at tourists. The old St Andrews Woolen Mill was closing and having a great clearance sale. I got a sweater with a Westie on it for only $16 instead of $60 a catalog back in the states was asking for it. Also got great bargains on leather gloves and other cold weather clothing.

Because I owned two Westies at the time, I went into several gift shops including James Pirie (that has been in business for over 100 years) in search of figurines of my favorite breed.

There are lots of local eateries. Try a pub for an authentic meal. One day, we ate lunch at Playfair’s Bar located in The Pilmour Hotel. Definitely a Scottish pub setting, we had the place almost to ourselves. Husband had a McEwan’s 80 shillings, grilled tuna with chips (fries) and pea pods. I had chicken in a yummy Gorgonzola sauce. Another day, lunch was at No. 33 (South Street), a restaurant recommended by a friend of my husband’s. A charming little French Bistro with lace curtains in the windows, we had the place to ourselves owing to it being almost 2pm. (Tip: If restaurant hours allow it, eat at any time other than normal meal hour.) A tasty meal of good poached haddock, chips and veggies and homemade apple pie with cream for dessert. Sadly, No. 33 is no longer in business.

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St Andrews Sightseeing – Part 1 – A Lesson in Scottish History

Posted on February 17, 2015 by J. Matlock, Director of Fantasies

St. Andrews is a quintessentially Scottish town, with it lovely old houses, centuries old buildings and view of the sea. There is more to this charming town than its famous golf courses. There are a variety of activities, among them visiting the ancient historic sites here. Those mentioned below are the ones I have had the pleasure to visit. You need more than a day to fully experience all that St. Andrews has to offer.

West Sands Beach – Best known for the opening scene in the movie “Chariots of Fire” in which slow motion runners race down the beach. While there are plenty of visitors who reenact that scene (including my husband, at least in his imagination) on the hard packed 2 mile stretch of beautiful white sand, it is also a great beach for walkers and their canine companions.  On a fall day, we were gifted with rare sunshine, but a brisk wind (typical Scottish weather) off the firth bends wispy blades of sea grass on the dunes as people huddle in their jackets to fend off the cold. During the summer, children build sandcastles and some hardy souls brave the frigid water for a dip. A pleasant walk is sure to whet the appetite for a hearty Scottish lunch at one of the town’s many restaurants or pubs.

St. Andrews Castle – I am fascinated by old architectural buildings and ruins, the story they tell of those times and that they were constructed without the aid of modern machinery. The grounds and ruins of both the castle and the cathedral are free to explore. If you seek a history lesson, purchase the combined admission ticket. Start your tour in the Visitors Center to see various exhibits, some with audio narration, to familiarize visitors with the story of the castle.

Perched on a craggy cliff overlooking the North Sea, this 13th century castle was fortified in the 1100s. In 1200, it became the main residence for the Bishop & archbishops of St. Andrews. Today, the castle and cathedral are both ruins, but what remains of the original structures is worth exploring, especially for adventurous curious kids. There are great views from atop some of the remaining perimeter walls.

Don’t miss the famous Bottle Dungeon –Built when the castle served as a prison, it is a bottle-shaped pit dug 22 foot down into solid rock below the Sea Tower, accessible only by the narrow bottleneck shaped opening through a trap door in the floor, making escape impossible. The opening is now covered with a safety grill, but one gets the feeling of what a scary, dank, dark space is below and that many a prisoner was forgotten there.

Another truly claustrophic space are the mines and countermines under the castle. These were created during a long siege ordered by the Earl of Arran in 1546. The attacking forces sought to undermine the walls of the castle by digging a spacious tunnel. The defenders responded to the mine by trying to dig an intercepting tunnel or countermine. After several false starts, the defenders’ low, narrow, twisting countermine broke through into the attackers’ mine, resulting in underground fighting. The tunnel leading into the mine is deeply sloped and very narrow. Try as I might, crouching down and overcome with fear of tight places, I could not make myself go down. My husband crab walked his way in. He found a larger room accessible by a ladder complete with water dripping from the cavern roof. His trip earned him a great memory and dirt on his khaki slacks.

As an additional treat, walk down to the beach below. Take my word for it that it is worth it. Walk out away from the base of the castle, then turn around and enjoy the spectacular view. There’s something else interesting about this beach. Look down at the sand carefully and you’ll find it.

St Andrews Cathedral – Looking at the ruins of Scotland’s largest and most magnificent medieval church, you get the sense of how beautiful this church was. Surviving portions include the majestic west front, the south wall of the nave and the east gable of the presbytery, where the relics of St Andrew were once held. The cloister to the south contains the ruined chapter house. Stone-vaulted undercrofts house the cathedral museum, with its fascinating collection of old stone pieces, many heavily carved with intricate designs and the St Andrews sarcophagus. Also housed here is a display of wax seals of various ranks of church officials.

The cathedral is surrounding by a large cemetery worth exploring to look at the craved grave markers and Celtic style headstones and fascinating to note the old dates and eulogies. The graveyard attracts a special crowd, those interested in the resting places of golf legends Old Tom Morris, young Tom Morris and Allen Robertson. Two American visitors had left pots of sand and tees to pay homage to the younger Morris.

St. Rules Tower – It takes a token to enter the tower, part of overall admission, but can be purchased separately in the cathedral museum. Inserting the token and pushing the revolving gate can be tricky. My husband didn’t do it correctly and couldn’t get in. I got in, but wish I had let him go instead.  Be warned this is not a place if you are claustrophobic. The stairway is so narrow that only one person can go up or down. People were smaller in the 12th century. I crawled up the 167 winding steps to the top, thankful that no one was coming down. The tower is 33m high and not being a big fan of heights, it was dizzying. Once I calmed down though, the surrounding views were spectacular and I took several photos.

(Read more about St Andrews in Part 2)

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