The Old Course Hotel – Home of Golf

St Andrews is the mecca of the golf world and to play the oldest golf course in the world is on every golfer’s to-do list. The Old Course Hotel has to be every golfer’s dream accommodation. It may well be many a golfer’s wife’s dream as well to stay here to enjoy the charm and services offered at this historic hotel.

This five-star hotel, with 144 rooms (including 35 suites), was once an old railway station. You can still see some of the original stone walls in the ground floor hallways.

We stayed in an Old Course room on the 2nd floor, overlooking the 17th fairway (the infamous road hole) with spectacular views of West Sands Beach and the Scottish coastline beyond. Up the course, we could also see the 1st fairway, Swilcan Bridge, Granny Clark’s Wynd and the 18th hole. Fun to watch cars whose drivers were crazy enough to attempt to cross the wynd, get hit by a golf ball.

Rooms are clean, fresh and well appointed. Décor ranges from soft yellows and greens to neutral tones. Suites are resplendent with leather furniture, dark wood (think old school men’s club) and fireplaces. The only drawback I experienced is the walls being a bit on the thin side as we could hear family members in the next room.

At the time we stayed there in September 1998, room rates included complimentary use of facilities in the spa (including indoor lap pool), full Scottish breakfast and 17.5% VAT.

Dining at the Road Hole Restaurant (formally the Road Hole Grille) on the top floor is a luxurious gourmet experience. Windows provide panoramic views of the town and surrounding area decked out in fall color. You can see the Royal & Ancient clubhouse; the stonework bathed in golden light from the setting sun. As luck would have it, it was my husband’s birthday. He claims it was the best birthday he has ever had. He enjoyed rib roast and Yorkshire pudding with a Beaune 1st Cru. He and his brother retired to the Road Hole bar for to enjoy an after dinner dram of 12-year old Glenlivet Scotch.

Breakfast is definitely worth getting up for! A full buffet is laid out at the Road Hole Restaurant. Many dishes are what make up a full Scottish breakfast – eggs, streaky bacon (awesome!), potatoes, sautéed tomatoes and mushrooms, blood pudding. Homemade granola, fruit, yogurt and a variety of bread and pastries baked on the premises are also offered.

The hotel was full during our stay as it coincided with the annual meeting of the Royal and Ancient (R & A), the governing body of golf. Lots of celebrities were around, including Sean Connery! Golf has been played here since 1400. The golfers in our party had tee times arranged far in advance of our arrival, absolutely necessary due to high demand to play the courses.

There is a small putting course called the Himalayas, which once served as the ladies course in times past, when women were not permitted on the Old Course. Back when there in the late 90s, the keeper’s Border Collie could be seen trotting around the course when he accompanied his master to work.

If you are at the hotel on Sunday, there is no golf that day, in keeping with the age-old tradition of no golf on the Sabbath. Instead, there is another tradition on the Old Course of people walking and playing with their dogs on the links. I am sure our Westie back at home would have enjoyed running free on the world’s most famous golf course.

Afternoon tea is held daily in the Conservatory. The floor to ceiling glass walls are reminiscent of solariums found in English and Scottish baronial estates of bygone days. Noting a good size crack in one window, our server informed us that occasional errant balls have hit the glass causing a horribly loud noise that is frightening to diners. While not making time to tea, I ran in and begged for some Scottish shortbread. Baked on site, it was tender and buttery perfection.

The Jigger Inn, which was once the station master’s house (the building is over 100 years old), is a cozy setting for a 19th hole bar. Fun to have a favorite pint or wee dram while watching Dr. Who or Red Dwarf on the telly.

The Kohler Waters Spa is a relaxing spa experience for golfers and non-golfers alike. The staff is very knowledgeable and skilled. Enjoy revitalizing facials, massages, a new hair-do and the best leg waxing anywhere. The calming indoor pool with cool blue and green décor and waterfall is pure bliss.

Luxury and a once in a life stay not to be missed. For more information, visit their web site at http://www.oldcoursehotel.co.uk/

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Lobster Haven is Lobster Heaven

Over the years one finds that some of the best places to eat are not fancy; sometimes border lining on being considered a dump. One such hidden gem is tucked away in a strip mall on Hillsborough Avenue right before entering Oldsmar. Lobster Haven Seafood Market and Restaurant is not much to look at, but if you are homesick for New England or just love seafood simply prepared, this is the place for you.

The décor may be off putting at first – Concrete floors and mismatched chairs with tables fill 2 dining rooms. Lobster tanks in back, freezer cases and a counter make up the seafood market. The one nice touch is the Maine memorabilia – funny lobster art, photos of Maine lighthouses and several lighthouse figurines. I asked a server about them one day and she said they were given to the restaurant by a lady who was cleaning out her house.

Run by a transplanted Bostonian, the lobsters are flown in fresh from Maine. While not as good as being in Maine or Boston to eat fresh caught, it does ok. I lived in Maine for 4 years, so it works fine for me when I get a craving for comfort food. You can eat in (highly recommended), take out or purchase seafood and fish to prepare at home.

Service is sometimes slow, but taking time isn’t always a bad thing. Order drinks – tea, sodas including ones from Maine and wine and various beers that are available.

Order the Lobster chowder (chowda to you New Englanders). This is not a bisque like other restaurants serve. Thick, creamy and stunning with the amount of lobster in it. No scrimping here. It’s a decadent treat, especially on a rare cold Florida day. It’s so filling, it could be a meal in itself. The toasted bread and butter is downright habit forming. For those who don’t like lobster, clam chowder is equally creamy and filling.

For New England flavor, several menu items fit the bill. Try the various “bucket” dinners as well as the lobster dinners. The bucket dinners come with lobster and various seafood (steamer clams, mussels, shrimp, etc). All dinners come with corn on the cob and steamed red skin potatoes. For lighter appetites, the Chix Lobster is just the right size.

IMG_0203Don’t miss trying the Lobster Rolls. There are two versions – the familiar one mixed lightly with mayo and the U-Conn which is served with melted butter. Visiting Maine one year, I discovered the natives go for the butter version. Both are served on a New England style hot dog bun – less crust, more dough or request it served on a lettuce leaf for gluten free eating. Served with cole slaw, potato or macaroni salad and kettle chips. Get it with the Lobster Chowder. Wicked good!

Watch for occasional menu offerings such as the New Orleans seafood dinner. My dining companion loves the spicy flavors enhancing the seafood.

There are a few menu choices for those who don’t like or are allergic to shellfish.

Con #1 – Many people find the menu pricey. Anyone visiting New England will find the same prices or higher. Check their website for specials. A Groupon makes dining here truly affordable.

The other con – Crowds seem to run in waves. I was the only one in the place at 1pm on a weekday. If there are specials (Monday is Snow Crab Night), there can be quite a few diners. Naturally more crowded on weekends and crazy busy on Fridays during Lent. It is a great place to end the weekend. I’ve seen quite a few beach goers dine there on Sunday evenings. Good seafood and you don’t have to dress up.

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A Day with the Fishes at The Florida Aquarium

DSC01326Living in Florida definitely has its advantages, one of the best being that almost the entire state is wrapped in a wonderful mantle of beautiful sand beaches that fan out into gorgeous ocean views. There is easy access for divers and snorkelers to enjoy the underwater beauty of the abundant sea life below the surface

For those of us landlubbers, the Florida Aquarium provides the opportunity to see a slice of undersea life. Its huge glass domed roof reminiscent of an incoming wave of tsunami portions looms over the Channelside district of Tampa.

Over the years since its opening, I have been trying without success to visit the aquarium. Finally a discounted Living Social special was just the ticket to get there (good deal at $29 for two adults). Unfortunately, the $6 parking fee was not included, but at least we didn’t have to hunt for space or park in an expensive garage.

We selected New Year’s Day to visit. While somewhat busy, it was way less crowded than during the summer months and other school holidays.

First stop is the ticket window, unless like me you have a Groupon or Living Social deal voucher purchased in advance. General Adult admission is $23.95, kids 3- 11 $18.95 and kids under 2 are free. Save $2 by purchasing on their website http://www.flaquarium.org/ and you don’t have to wait in the box office line. Check out the prices for various optional experiences (more about those later).

Upon entering the building, an employee will ask if they can take your picture (for an extra fee). Skipping that, hunger overruled the start of of our tour. Places to eat are limited and on the ground floor to the right of the escalators, just past the Horseshoe Crab lagoon. Café Ray is cafeteria style serving deli sandwiches, grilled items, salads & more. I found the layout a little confusing and didn’t like pre-made sandwiches, so I went with the salad bar. A bit pricey for the offerings. Some might think it strange, but I would like to see seafood items on the menu as well as Florida-based foods such as Conch chowder or a good blackened grouper sandwich. The other eatery is Caribbean Cantina, just outside Café Ray near the Explore a Shore play area, which is basically a bar where you can have adult beverages as well as order food, which is brought out to you from the Café Ray kitchen.

To start your visit, take the escalator or elevator to the next floor and enter Wetland Trails which features species native to Florida. Don’t miss looking up as you enter to see a surprising unusual underwater point of view. My favorite part of this section is the otters. Otto and Brandon put on quite a show, especially when a trainer shows up with fish at 1:30pm most days. Brandon, the younger otter, does great back flips, which he learned on his own.

DSC01279Turn around from the otters and you will get rare close-up views above and below water of two very large alligators. Be very thankful for the glass partition. DSC01283

As you continue to walk on the trail, watch out! Native Florida birds may fly overhead.

The only exhibit on this floor not native to Florida is Penguin Point. African Penguins to be exact. One was very playful and photogenic that day performing flips and turns it seemed just for me. He even followed my hand as I moved it along the glass.DSC01296 DSC01297 DSC01298DSC01294

Continue to walk through Bays and Beaches featuring lobsters, grouper and a touch tank at Stringray Beach. Walk through a doorway to visit the No Bones Zone where you can touch starfish, anemones and other invertebrate. Cool experience. Just make sure you clean your hands afterward at one of the sanitizer stations.

Continuing on down the next dark hall is Coral Reef Tunnel and Coral Cave with tanks of beautiful coral varieties. Continuing down the dark hall, one goes into Dragons Down Under – a display of seahorses, that is magical.

DSC01311 DSC01313

Visitors will then come to a seating area in front of a large viewing window of the main aquarium tank. There is a daily Penguin Promenade in this area, where guests can get up and fairly close to two African penguins. One fact you will learn at this demonstration may have you thinking twice about getting too close.

Following the dark halls around you will find more tanks of sea creatures such as jellyfish and Portuguese Man ‘O War, eerily floating ghost like in their tanks.

DSC01322Take the elevator or stairs next to Penguin Point to the 3rd floor which houses Journey to Madagascar. What this has to do with Florida marine life puzzled me. Don’t miss the Lemurs, who were perturbed at being woken up during the day, but made for a good photo op.

Kids can lose interest quickly with all the scientific marine life stuff so there is a play area with pirate ship and water cannons outside Café Ray to keep them happy.

My view of the Florida Aquarium is slightly tainted due to trips to Sea Life Park when I lived in Hawaii and to some extent visits to Sea World in Orlando. I was expecting a more in-depth facility with tanks featuring larger marine life such as dolphins, but there just isn’t room.

There are other adventures to enjoy – Swim with the Fishes, Dive with the Sharks, Wild Dolphin Cruise, Penguins Backstage Tour and Behind the Scenes Tour. All are for additional charges, some quite pricey. Check the web site for more information.

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It’s All Greek To Me – Hellas Restaurant and Bakery

Hellas-signHellas means ‘Greece’ in Greek. By the crowd waiting outside to get in, it should also mean “there is a good reason to try out our restaurant”. Open since 1970, this is one popular place. Be aware that Hellas is billed by locals as a tourist trap. Located in a prime spot in the center of the sponge dock area on Dodeconese Avenue, it is the easiest for tourists to find.

Beautiful tile-topped tables are arranged inside and outside. Choose an outdoor one for great people watching and enjoying the Florida weather on a sunny day.

If you are there long enough, someone will order the Saganaki – flaming imported Greek cheese. The flames are spectacular and everybody in the restaurant yells “Opa!” when it happens. The tasty cheese is served with pita and definitely worth a try.

The menu features a wide variety of Greek cuisine – Kabobs, Gyros, Soulaki – chunks of marinated pork served just like a gyro and chicken Souvlaki, if like me you don’t eat pork. My husband’s favorite is the Keftedes – Greek-style meatballs. They also serve a traditional Greek salad for one, two or four, pan-fried squid, Greek style shrimp, roast leg of lamb and whole fish dinners. The list goes on. My personal favorite is the delicious Greek-style lamb chops charbroiled Athenian style with oregano, olive oil and lemon sauce. I get the lemon sauce on the side as I like to enjoy the simple flavor of the lamb with just the oregano and olive oil.

Most entrees come with rice and a vegetable. Every time I have dined there, it has been green beans. My biggest compliant is a lot of stuff is drowning in tomato sauce which I don’t think the food needs.

Hellas-Bakery-interior Desserts come from the bakery attached to the restaurant or you can just visit the bakery.Pastries are what Hellas does best. There are so many choices it’s hard to decide – Baklava in several flavors, Folites (phyllo dough round filled with ground walnuts, ground almonds, topped with sweet sticky apricot, pistachio bits, and honey), Kataifi (shredded phyllo dough filled with walnut and honey filling), Ergoslavos (2 biscuit cookies filled with apricot and studded with almonds), Kourambiethes (butter almond wedding cookies), Kok (2 thin vanilla cake layers filled with creamy custard), Pasta (3-layer cakes coated in chocolate), rice pudding and several flavors of cheesecake. galatoubrekoMy favorite is Galaktoboureko – a custard encased in a top and bottom layer of phyllo dough and lightly drizzled with honey. It is best enjoyed slightly warm if you are lucky enough to get it freshly baked with a dollop of real whipped cream and dusting of cinnamon. Breads such as the sweet Tsoureki Easter bread with a colored hard boiled egg in the middle are also available. Bring a cooler so you can take home some Greek treats. And what goes better with dessert than one of their coffees made to order. For those that don’t like pastries, ice cream is also available.

Check out their website at www.http://hellasbakery.com

Hellas-front

(This is an updated version of a review I wrote for IGOUGO.com in March 2002.)

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Favorite Florida State Park & Beach Pick – Honeymoon Island State Park

Four wonderful miles of mostly quiet white sand beaches including a pet beach section that is not overrun by tourists, a slice of real Florida nature and helpful facilities including bathhouses, plenty of parking, snack bar, various rentals and a nature center. A park definitely worth visiting, so pack your beach stuff and maybe your canine best friend and head on over. I’m lucky it’s only 15 minutes drive from my house!

Located at the end of SR 586 (Curlew Road), the island is a link in the chain of barrier islands that extends from Anclote Key south to Cape Romano. It cushions the Florida coast from tropical storms. In 1921 a hurricane split the island, forming Hurricane Pass and Caladesi Island to the south.

Named Honeymoon Isle in 1939 by a New York developer who bought the island for $30,000, newsreels and magazine ads in the 1940’s promised undiscovered pleasures for newlyweds in one of the 50 palm-thatched bungalows he built. The bungalows are gone, but it is a beautiful site for beach weddings. This vacation paradise was recommissioned as an R & R site for exhausted workers during World War II. By the 1950’s, a causeway bridged the gap between Honeymoon Island and the mainland.

My recent visit was prompted by a mention in the local paper that admission was being waived for Veteran’s Day. With great weather that day how could I not go?! I loaded up two of my dogs and made the short drive to the park.

Admission is $4/person or $8 for 2 to 8 people. Children under 6 admitted free. (TIP: Watch the local paper for announcements of free admission to state parks. Almost every state has a state park day.) If you plan to go frequently, an annual pass is a good deal at $60, good at any Florida state park. All fees subject to change.

There is a disarming sign as you enter that warns of possible rattlesnakes on the island that may freak some out. Good to heed not only for human visitors but for dogs as well.

My Sheltie enjoying a walk on Honeymoon Island's dog beach.

My Sheltie enjoying a walk on Honeymoon Island’s dog beach.

The pet beach is on the south end, the first section you come to, marked by a small sign pointing to the left. Getting to the shore requires walking a longish path through thick plant growth. All pets must be leashed. My strong recommendation – don’t let your dogs go into the thick brush. There are a few trash cans and posts along the path with poop bag containers in case you forgot to bring your own, another good idea as sometimes the canisters are empty. Leave no trace by picking up after your dog.

Once in the beach, you can walk to the left or the right. The left end is flat sand and goes around a bend at the far end that becomes very rocky and difficult to walk on with dogs. Turning right, you can continue walking until you get to the next section, where no dogs are allowed. It is fun to interact with fellow dog owners and their pooches and get some great exercise for my legs. (TIP: Watch out for sand spurs, the spiked burrs that come off of one of the native grasses. They hurt to step on and get really tangled in dog fur. Don’t take footwear off until you reach the beach.)

sailboat off honeymoon island1456Visitors can enjoy sunbathing, kayaking, canoeing, sailing and swimming in the warm Gulf waters. During summer stingray mating season, stingrays rest in underwater sand. Learn to do the “Stingray Shuffle” so you don’t become a victim of very painful tail barb stings.

Surf and pass fishing can yield flounder, snook, trout, redfish, snapper, whiting, sheepshead and tarpon. (Fishing license required.)

Picnic pavilions, bathhouses and a cafe are available. On one visit, I found the bathhouse dirty – sand and water on the floors (slippery and unsafe) and in need of a good cleaning.

sandpiper_croppedThe island is home to more than 208 species of plants and a variety of shore birds, including several threatened and endangered species. Visitors can observe one of the few remaining Florida virgin slash pine stands along the island’s northern loop trail. These large trees DSC01455serve as important nesting sites for the osprey. The Rotary Centennial Nature Center has an elevated observation deck offering spectacular views and at low tide, provides a good opportunity to see wading birds around the sea grass beds in St. Joseph Sound. There are ranger led trail walks and shell programs available. The best shelling is on the north end.

Alcoholic beverages are prohibited, except at the Cafe Honeymoon restaurant in the park where alcohol is sold. Alcohol is allowed during park-sanctioned events, within designated areas only.

For more information, check out their web site at http://www.floridastateparks.org/honeymoonisland/

Don’t forget to bring the sunscreen and sunglasses!

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Era ends for “White Queen of the Gulf”

While trying to decide what my inaugural blog entry would be, some bittersweet news came to my attention about one of my favorite hotels here in the Tampa Bay area . The fate of the Belleview Biltmore Resort and Spa has been decided this week by the Belleair town council. In a unanimous vote, the aging resort will be demolished, ending an era for the vintage hotel once known as the “White Queen of the Gulf”. Sadly, this once beautiful turn of the century historic hotel has become a crumbling ruin.

I am also a big fan of historic hotels and inns and have a interest in these architectural treasures. They are gems of a time in American history now being lost to the modern world fueled by the desire for newer, more modern things and experiences and the drive for increasing tourism profits.

The Belleview Hotel, as it was originally known, was opened in 1897 and built by railroad magnate Henry B. Plant, who developed Florida’s early rail system. Plant built several hotels in Florida to attract the wealthy society of the day who sought to escape the cold North and visit the exotic tropical climate of Florida. His trains would deliver guests right to the hotel’s doorstep. The largest wooden structure in the state, it was host to many celebrities and dignitaries. For locals, it was a great location for weddings, balls and other social events.

I was blessed to have stayed at the Belleview twice in the early 1990’s as part of Christian singles church retreats. I was wowed by the Victorian charm, the grand wood staircases, the decor. It was a step back in time to a bygone era. The ballroom had a ceiling is made up of panels of beautiful Tiffany glass. The glass had been painted over (with green paint!) during World War II, when military personnel were housed there. Thank God, someone discovered and restored it. Each room was different in it’s design and decor, some with fireplaces and balconies. There were many nooks and crannies to explore. The modern pools are nice to cool off in, but I liked being able to swim in the Gulf at the resort’s private section of beach that was part of the beach cabana a short drive from the hotel. Soaking in the warm mineral water of the spa’s tranquil indoor pool one afternoon made me wonder how many fashionable ladies had also done the same for the many decades the hotel was the place to come to for relaxation.

When the Japanese company Mido acquired the hotel, they erected a modern looking entry that did not match the Victorian style of the hotel.  A few years later when the hotel came under new ownership, it seemed to start to decline. The tropical storms that passed through Tampa Bay caused extensive damage to the roof. The resulting water damage spiraled out of control and wreaked havoc on the interior. Last time I visited before it closed in 2009, I was disappointed to see how much it had deteriorated into a crumbling, moldy mess.

Part of the plan for redevelopment includes building a boutique inn using part of the west wing to preserve some of this hotel’s charm and history. Boutique inns seem to be all the rage right now, so it can work. I just hope they remember to save the Tiffany glass.

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